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Banff
Banff, Alberta, Canada
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The Scots get everywhere. Not content with their highland home,
they were at the leading edge of the British Empire. In fact, if you look at
the history of that Empire, more of its leaders and administrators were Scots
than English. Wherever these people went, they took their homeland with them.
There are places all over the world named after bits of Scotland. Canada has a
particularly rich Scots heritage – the Canadian army has even traditionally had
Scots ‘Highland’ regiments that wear kilts and tartan and march to pipe bands.

Banff Townsite
Banff, Alberta, is about as Scots a place as you can get outside
the native land. It’s named after a small town in Aberdeenshire. But there’s
nothing small at all about Canada’s Banff. Although it’s not a particularly
huge city, it’s the gateway to the spectacular Banff National Park in the
northern Rockies – one of the most rugged and beautiful places in the world.
The city itself is a great place from which to explore the Park. There are
plenty of things to do, and lots of places to stay. If you’re feeling
particularly rich, you could even book a few nights at the Banff Springs Hotel
– a huge establishment built around a hundred years ago in (predictably) the
Scottish Baronial style, the Hotel in many ways dominates the town below,
perched as it is above the spectacular Bow Falls. Although it features all
kinds of modern amenities, including a golf course which weaves in and out of
the local pine forests, two things drove the hotel’s construction: hot water
and railways.
The hot water comes from the nearby Banff hot springs that give
the hotel its name. For many years the hotel was halfway to being a sanatorium
as people came from all over North America to bathe in the warm, sulphurous
waters in the hope of curing various ailments. The railways aided this: Banff
lies along the main east-west route that traverses continental Canada, making
it the ideal place for a stop-off, and, therefore, some luxury hotel
accommodation.
Beyond Banff itself the National Park is quite amazing to behold – the natural
world doesn’t get much more dramatic, or intimidating, than this. There are
several sights that you should make an effort to take in. First, however, you
should bear in mind that you are only allowed inside the Park if you have
bought a permit. These aren’t expensive, and their chief purpose is to keep
track of who is inside the Park for safety reasons rather than to fleece you of
your hard-earned cash. Don’t be tempted to skimp on buying one: possession is
required by law, and Park Rangers make very regular checks, especially during
high season.
Pass purchased, possibly the first place you will want to visit will be Lake
Louise. This huge body of water has a beautiful and distinctive emerald
green/blue shade, the result of a strange mix of minerals in the bedrock. Lake
Louise is also the name of the small village that sits by the lake. There’s not
a great deal to do in the village, though there is a shopping mall where you
can buy souvenirs and supplies. The village’s economy is more or less based on
being the starting point for a number of major hiking trails to some of the
large mountains that surround the lake. You might like to spend a day or two
exploring these trails – however, make sure you’re properly equipped and
experienced, as even some of the more basic trails lead to remote areas where
even a relatively minor accident such as a twisted ankle could result in
benightment.
If you prefer to see the amazing beauty of Banff National Park from the
reassuring comfort of a car, you should drive the Icefields Parkway, which
actually crosses the Great Divide itself. The Parkway – which is a simple two
lane highway, closed to anything larger than a car – offers some fantastic
views of the mountainous terrain, including close-ups of some of the biggest
northern hemisphere glaciers south of the Arctic Circle. Particularly worth
looking at are the Athabasca Glacier and Falls. The highest point of the route,
Bow Summit, is over two thousand meters high. It’s a good idea to start early,
and try to complete the route in a day – there aren’t many places to stay! Bear
in mind that you should be sure to fill up, too. The only gasoline on the route
is available at Saskatchewan Crossing.
Banff and its National Park are great places to visit. Although
it can be a little tough to get around with a car, it’s worth making the effort
to visit this amazing part of the world at least once in your life – to see
what ‘the big country’ really means!
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