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The Grandest of the Grand
Grand Canyon, Arizona
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One of the difficulties of visiting the Grand Canyon is that it is just so
unimaginably huge that your mind can’t cope with its dimensions. If you stand
on the South Rim and look down and across, the landmarks you see may seem quite
close: the Colorado River looks quiet and peaceful, an apparent few hundred
feet below. The far, north rim of the Canyon can, in certain lights, seem so
close that you can touch it.
Only you can’t, because it might be as much as eight miles away.
The delightful stream you can see down below is actually a roaring torrent –
and you’re three thousand feet above it. It’s only when the bit of your brain
that deals with distances begins to absorb these figures that you can really
comprehend how huge the Grand Canyon is. Up until that point your consciousness
simply refuses to believe what it’s seeing.
Probably the best way to enjoy the sheer scale of the Canyon is to spend a day
driving between some of the major viewpoints on the south rim – the most
popular are generally quite close to the National Park tourist center at Grand
Canyon Village. If you start early in the morning you’ll be able to notice the
other great thing about the Canyon: the almost infinite variety of lighting
conditions that illuminate it at different times of the day. Sunrises, in
particular, can seem amazing from remote spots such as Yaki Point. Check out
the transport possibilities and arrangements before you arrive. Many of roads
along the south rim are closed during the height of the tourist season to
permit the easy flow of shuttle buses. These buses can themselves offer a great
way of getting around the south rim of the Canyon, and regular organized tours
stop at many of the most famous points.
The north rim is much less easy to access, and is generally closed completely
during the winter months. The huge majority of people who are simply going to
the Canyon to enjoy the amazing views find that the vistas from the south are
more than enough to satisfy their desire to see some really spectacular
geography.
The Park authorities don’t expect you to simply stand at
viewpoints gawping the whole time, either, though if you’re suitably impressed
by the immensity of it all that would be a pretty easy thing to do. The south
rim is studded with museums and viewing galleries that tell you all about the
history and the science behind the Grand Canyon. Here are a few must-sees:
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The Tusuyan museum is 22 miles out of Grand Canyon Village on
Desert View Drive. Admission is free, and the museum is a great chance to learn
about ancient Americans. The museum is gateway to a site that was, 800 years
ago, the home village of a community of pueblo Indians. You can look around by
yourself, or join one of the twice-daily Ranger tours that start at 11.30am and
1pm.
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If bad weather strikes – which isn’t exactly unknown – you can
head along to Yavapai Observation Station. It has huge observation windows that
allow you to look out on the Canyon if poor conditions set in, or, more likely
at the height of the tourist season, it’s just too hot outside – even at over
3000 feet the sun can beat down! The Station also hosts a number of changing
displays and exhibitions about the history, geology, flora and fauna of the
Grand Canyon.
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For those of a more artistic inclination, there’s a very
interesting sight to see in Grand Canyon Village itself, by the Bright Angel
trailhead. The Kolb Studio was once the home of the Kolb brothers and is now a
museum dedicated to them and their work. The brothers were pioneering
photographers who took some of the earliest and most famous shots of the
Canyon. There is a permanent exhibition of their work on display, plus exhibits
of art inspired by the Grand Canyon and Native American arts and crafts. The
studio itself is a charming old wooden house, surprisingly large, which perches
right on the edge of the south rim.
Of course, if you’re an outdoors type, the Grand Canyon presents great
opportunities for hiking. The landscape offers some great chances for a kind of
inverted mountain-climb: you start off with a descent and have to climb back
up! This, of course, presents its own perils. Make sure you’re fit enough to
get back up once you’ve made the descent, that you’re properly equipped and
have plenty of food and water. The
Park authorities recommend camping on the Canyon floor to split the
hike over two days and therefore avoid having to walk in the midday heat.
The Grand Canyon is a great destination because it really does
have something to offer everyone – and it’s getting deeper and more spectacular
all the time!
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