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Milan: Italy's Present and Past Tenses
Where Rome was the urban center of the first century and Florence bristled with commerce in the sixteenth century, Milan is Italy’s metropolis of the twenty-first century. Ask an Italian about Milan, and they are likely to tell you that it is the only place in the country where things get done. A center of fashion and business, Milan today is the focus of Italy’s of commercial productivity. As the primary transportation hub for the region, it is also the location of Malpensa Airport (the country’s largest international air terminal) and it has more rail connections and the best subway system of any other Italian city.
A visitor bent on experiencing Milan should begin at the massive Duomo in its Gothic splendor and select one of a number of arteries that lead to different parts of the city. Corso Vittorio Emanuele leads to the fashion district. Milan’s well-known role in the world of high fashion is centered on the city’s “Golden Quadrangle,” a square kilometer spanning Via della Spiga, Via Monte Napoleone, and Via Sant'Andrea. Any fashionista will recognize the names on the design houses: Missoni, Mandelli, Armani, Versace. If you time your visit right and get lucky enough to ask at the right time (either by contacting the house directly or working through your concierge), you may be able to gain entrance to one of the big shows held in January (for men's spring-summer), February (women's spring-summer), October (women's fall-winter), and June (men's fall-winter). Even if you are unable to join the glitterati at one of these shows, the Golden Quadrangle can be an enjoyable shopping experience for the out of town visitor.
In spite of its well-established position in today’s global economy, Milan has not left the past behind. Visitors seeking the Milan of previous centuries will not leave disappointed. Castello Sforzesco lies to the northwest of the Duomo, past the exclusive residences of Milan’s weathy and powerful. The bastion of Milan’s most powerful medieval and Renaissance families, the Visconti and the Sforza, this fortress was a center of fifteenth century culture. Today it houses the works of famous artists including da Vinci and Michelangelo.
North of the Duomo and beyond the famous La Scala opera house are the picturesque winding streets of Brera, the traditional bohemian quarter. Thanks to Napoleon Bonaparte, the seventeenth-century palazzo now known as Pinacoteca di Brera houses an impressive collection of medieval and Renaissance art. The Little Emperor used the palazzo as his repository for art he seized from various places in northern Italy, and the forty rooms of the gallery showcase some of Italy’s greatest masterpieces. The names are a “Who’s Who” listing, including Tintoretto, Caravaggio, and Canaletto.
The church of San Satiro, an innovative piece of Renaissance architecture, lies to the southwest of the Duomo on Via Torina. Also in this neighborhood, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana gallery focuses on art from the fifteenth through seventeenth centuries, with another impressive list of artists represented, including Titian, Raphael, and Botticelli.Caravaggio's only still life (Basket of Fruit) hangs here, as does the controversial Portrait of a Musician, which might or might not be from the hand of da Vinci. The adjoining Biblioteca Ambrosiana, a library, is only occasionally open to the public. Its collection includes an abundance of Renaissance writings, including letters of Lucrezia Borgia.
The monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie is also to the southwest of the Duomo, and is the primary reason many tourists include Milan in their plans. In the last years of the fifteenth century, when this complex was a Dominican convent, Leonardo Da Vinci painted one of his most famous works on one of the refectory walls—Cenacolo Vinciano, the Last Supper. Though time has taken its toll on this fresco in spite of valiant restoration efforts, the picture remains a moving masterpiece. Tickets to view it are often sold out days in advance, so no matter what time of year you visit, you are likely be turned away at the door if you don’t book ahead. Only 25 visitors are allowed in to see the fresco at a time, so be prepared to wait in a long line.
When a break from modern commerce and past culture is called for, one can while away an afternoon in the cafés and bookshops in the university quarter to the southeast of the Duomo.
Central Milan is compact and easy to walk, which is fortunate, since driving its streets can be quite a challenge and parking even more so. To get to points outside the immediate center, continue to go carless by using the efficient Metropolitana (subway).
If you have a taste for a break from the city altogether, then take a deep breath and rent a car. Make an easy to the northwest of the metropolitan area, and you will find the beautiful shores of Lakes Como and Maggiore, where lovely waterside villas and Alpine vistas give you a completely different feel for this part of Italy. Don’t be surprised to find more German spoken here than English, and wursts included with pastas on the restaurant menus. Besides catering to frequent visitors from the north, this area was once more German than Italian, and it has retained the culture from its previous allegiances.
Milan has not left the past behind—instead, it has incorporated it into its current incarnation. Though visitors may initially think that this city is not the Italy they are looking for, taking the time to look further will reward the tenacious with a wealth of Italian history and culture. |
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Beware the Italian Holidays
Is there anything more frustrating than traveling to an exciting destination, only to find that you’ve arrived during a holiday when all the shops and attractions are closed?
If you are planning a trip to Italy, keep these dates in mind. Offices and shops in Italy are closed on January 1 (New Year's Day), January 6 (Epiphany), Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, April 25 (Liberation Day), May 1 (Labor Day), August 15 (Assumption of the Virgin), November 1 (All Saints' Day), December 8 (Feast of the Immaculate Conception), December 25 (Christmas Day), and December 26 (Santo Stefano).
Also, keep in mind that much of Italy takes summer vacation in all or at least the last half of August, and most Italians take Christmas holidays from December 24 though January 6. If you are going off the beaten track, you may find that shops and banks are closed during some or all of those periods.
Each city, town, and village in Italy has a patron saint, and there will be celebrations on the requisite saint’s feast day that may close down shops and attractions. Here are the feast days for some of the more prominent Italian cities:
- Venice, St. Mark, April 25
- Florence, Genoa, and Turin, St. John the Baptist, June 24
- Rome, Sts. Peter and Paul, June 29
- Palermo, St. Rosalia, July 15
- Naples, St. Gennaro, September 19
- Bologna, St. Petronio, October 4
- Milan, St. Ambrose, December 7
Let your fingers do some Internet as you are putting your trip plan to together. Investigate the cities and towns on your itinerary to see when their local holidays fall on the calendar and if they coincide with your visit. If they do, it could be fun to take part in any celebrations that will be going on. But also keep in mind that you may not be able to visit local attractions or shops during the holiday period.
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WING TIPS:
Staying Safe on the Street
In Italy and elsewhere, petty theft is far more common than violent crime. Pocket picking and purse snatching are two of the most familiar forms of stealing on the street; in some locations, you may have your jewelry literally ripped from your neck or ears.
Here are some sensible tips for minimizing the risk of theft as you and your family tour the sights on your next trip.
- Keep your money, identification, and credit cards somewhere other than in a wallet or purse. Use a money belt or small zipper bag and only take whatever you will need for the immediate activity.
- If you do carry a wallet, make it more difficult for a thief to lift. Put it into a front pocket or a fanny pack (wear the pack in front of you).
- If you carry a purse, stay away from over the shoulder pouch-type models. Thieves can easily cut through the bottom of such a purse while it is still on your arm, and you won't even know it.
- Leave nice jewelry and watches in the hotel room; better yet, leave them behind at home.
- Stay away from poorly lit streets and alleys. Stay where the lights and people are.
- Conversely, beware of crowds and of anyone who tries to divert your attention to take you off guard.
- Finally, when you get money from an ATM, put it away immediately. If at all possible, immediately take a taxi to your next destination rather than walking in order to foil any thieves who have been watching your transaction and plan to follow you to relieve you of your withdrawal.
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