A first-time visitor to London isn’t likely to include the south side of the Thames. If they do, the visit will probably be limited to a walk across the Millennium Bridge to check out the Tate Modern and see Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. While both of these sights are certainly worth the trip, there is much more to the South Bank and Bankside areas of London that merit attention.
Beginning in the twelfth century, when the Bishop of Winchester operated twenty-two brothels in Bankside, a (usually male) London resident who wanted to party hearty headed out of town across London Bridge. At different times in the city’s history, different forms of entertainment thrived along the south side of the river, including theatres, cockpits, and bear baiting arenas. Vauxhall Gardens, a favorite entertainment for Georgian and Regency London, operated for 180 years at Westminster Bridge in the area now taken up by County Hall and the London Eye. And today, after years of lying fallow, the “Millennium Mile” from Westminster to London Bridge is a favorite (PG-rated) entertainment spot for locals and tourists alike, especially on sunny summer days.
So put on your walking shoes, slather on the sun screen, and don your shades and baseball cap (or floppy hat), and let’s spend the day walking on the south side.
Even though there are any number of Tube stops across the river, the best start for our walk is Westminster so you can take in the view of the river and the buildings that line its southern side as you walk across the bridge. You certainly can’t miss the London Eye, newest of the city’s many landmarks. Take a ride in one of its roomy capsules to get a bird’s 
eye view of the metropolis; on a clear day, in fact, you can see Windsor Castle! If you don’t book in advance, though, expect a “Disney World-like” wait in line before you can get tickets.
The London Eye sits in front of County Hall, former headquarters of the London County Council. It now houses two hotels, the London Aquarium, the Saatchi contemporary art gallery, Dali Universe (with more than 500 works of Spanish surrealist Salvador Dali), and, less impressively, a McDonald’s and several other fast food restaurants and bistros.
Walking downriver, the next complex we encounter is the South Bank Centre, which houses the Royal Festival Hall, an exhibition space, a great bookshop, the Poetry Library, the high-class People’s Palace restaurant, and less expensive eateries on the ground and first floors. Nearby, connected by concrete terraces overlooking the river, are more concert halls, the Purcell Room and Queen Elizabeth Hall, as well as the always interesting Hayward Gallery.
Just a few steps away along the river the National Film Theatre. Stop and browse through the used book stalls outside its restaurant and bar, then go in for a cup or glass of something to keep your energy up. Next door is the Royal National Theatre, home of the National Theatre Company. Theatre Square is an open-air performance space for street entertainers and the occasional showcase event.
For the shoppers among us, we next come to Gabriel’s Wharf, a set of former garages turned into a colorful mix of shops, studios, and restaurants. We can rest by the river and enjoy spectacular views of the City and St Paul’s before pushing on to OXO Tower Wharf and another set of shops and galleries.
Crossing under Blackfriars Bridge, we are now in Bankside, home of all those wicked diversions of past centuries. The first diversion we encounter today is the Bankside Gallery, home of the Royal Watercolour Society and the Royal Society of Painter Printmakers. The Gallery runs a changing program of exhibitions of contemporary watercolors and original prints. This is a great appetizer for our next stop: The Tate Modern, Britain’s national museum of modern art.
Housed in the former Bankside Power Station and sitting at the foot of the Millennium footbridge, the gallery displays a collection of international modern and contemporary art including major works by Bacon, Dalí, Picasso, Matisse, Rothko, and Warhol. The complex consists of seven floors with galleries, cafés, shops, and an auditorium. At the top of the building is a great outdoor cafe with wonderful views across London.
The next stop on our walk wafts us to the sixteenth century by way of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, a re-creation of what was probably the most important public theater ever built. Besides being a working theater, the complex houses an exhibition devoted to the world of Shakespeare from Elizabethan times to the present day. Guided tours of the facility are offered throughout the day. And what better place to see one of The Bard’s plays than in a replica of the theatre where they were first produced! We can stop and buy some tickets, maybe for tonight’s performance.
Are you tired? Well, just a little way on is Vinopolis, devoted to the world of wine. We can take a wine tour, or, even better, have a bite to eat at Cantina Vinopolis and Wine Wharf.
We’re almost done now. Our next stop is the reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake's ship Golden Hinde. The ship is a living history museum with a variety of programs that include guided tours, workshops, and the opportunity to spend a night aboard the ship on an imaginary voyage. Dressed in period clothes, Drake's new recruits learn 16th century sailor skills, eat Tudor food, and experience life 400 years ago.
The last stop of our walk on the south side is the Cathedral and Collegiate Church of St Saviour and St Mary Overie, Southwark. A church has stood on the site of Southwark Cathedral for over 1,000 years. The edifice currently standing on the site was the first gothic church built in London.
We have ended up near the location of the Tabard Inn, starting point of Chaucer’s pilgrims and their Canterbury Tales. Look around, imagining the stretch of years when the only access to London from the south was across London Bridge—how active this area must have been, brimming with coach houses, merchants, and beggars. As bustling as it is today, it has probably quieted down a bit since those days!
Just a few steps on and we’ve arrived at the London Bridge tube station. It’s been a great day. Who knew that the once wild South Side had such a variety of entertainments and culture? This area is certainly worth a return visit…or two!
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Managing the Sun:
The SPF Defense, Part 1
Most of us like to do our traveling while the sun shines. Whether we are walking the streets of an historic city, taking an eco-adventure, or just stretched out at the beach, we usually want the sky clear and the weather warm. But sun-filled travel can be dangerous if we don’t take the necessary precautions to protect ourselves from the very thing we seek.
The sad fact is that sun damage is cumulative over a lifetime, and we will pay for repeated negligence somewhere down the line. The good news is that there is a way to manage our sun exposure, even if we spend a lot of time up close and personal with its rays. Think of it as the SPF Defense: S for shade, P for protective clothing, and F for fluids (of the sun-blocking kind).
First, get some material between you and the sun, especially if you will be staying in one place for a while. Sit under an awning, put up that beach umbrella. You will still be exposed to UV rays, but not as much as if you were out in the open.
The best protective clothing is long pants and long-sleeved shirt, but this is not all that practical as they tend to be too hot too be comfortable. But a white cotton tee shirt has a sun protection factor (the “real” SPF) of only about 4 or 5 (a colored one even less) which isn’t a lot of protection. An alternative is to purchase some sun-blocker clothing that is now offered by an array of retailers. The material is special, with a tight weave and treatment, so they have the SPF equivalent of 30 or 40 or so. Be sure to wear a hat with a brim or a baseball cap, preferably with flap to cover your neck.
The last item under the "P" category is eye protection. Sun exposure is a causative factor in cataract formation in the lens of the eye. So get a good (i.e. expensive) pair of shades. They should be billed as "UV protective" and look for a rating of 98% protection or better. Polarization is also desirable, as it protects against reflected light. Get side flaps on the glasses too so that you can avoid the rays hitting your eyes peripherally.
In the next issue we will discuss the “F” of the SPF Defense: Fluids of the sun-blocking kind.
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WING TIPS:
Hotel-Related Tipping
Knowing when and how much to tip for various hotel services can be a challenge for travelers. Though tipping customs may vary from place to place, the truth is that there is no right or wrong when it comes to hotel tipping, just common sense.
No matter where you are, tipping is an option, not a must. Use your judgment. Having said that, here are some general guidelines you can use to make your tipping decisions:
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Hotel Housekeeping: Two dollars per night in a lower class hotel is sufficient, then up from there according to the situation. It is not necessary to tip for a one night stay or if you are staying in a bed and breakfast. Consider leaving your tip each morning because housekeepers work different shifts and may not be the same every day.
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Concierge: You do not need to tip for simple questions. Help in making reservations or securing tickets might warrant five to ten dollars, even more if they were difficult to secure.
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Doorman: If he only opens the door, no tip is necessary. If he hails a cab, two or three dollars is in order.
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Bellman: A dollar or two per bag is fine. If he shows you how to use the remote or some other room feature, bump it up another dollar or two to match the extent of his service.
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