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The Heurigens of Vienna
Let’s raise a toast to Maria Theresa, ruler of the Habsburg Empire from 1740 to 1780. During her reign, she decreed that Austrian wine producers could offer their wine and snacks to people who walked by. This seemingly unremarkable decree brought about a unique feature of Vienna and other areas of Austria: the heurigen.
As urbanites of bygone days escaped the city to enjoy a weekend ride or walk in the Viennese woods, heurigens quickly became popular. The word “heurigen” means both new wine (heuer means "this year") as well as the establishment in which it is served. A heurigen is always attached to the vineyard whose wine it serves. It was a source of good food and wine for low prices in a pleasant ambience—a shady bower, a rustic cellar, or right in the vineyard itself.
Heurigens were great social levelers; anyone could patronize the establishments. Much like the coffeehouses that sprang up in Vienna in the seventeenth century, they became centers for meetings by people of all sorts. And they continue to be convivial meeting places to this day, where local food and wine can be had along with enjoyable conversation and traditional music.
Maria Theresa’s son, Emperor Joseph II, later specified further rules for the selling of wine, many of which are still in force today. Only owners of vineyards and orchards situated within Vienna or within a maximum of ten kilometers outside the city limits are permitted to open heurigens. They are only allowed to sell their own wines, grown in Vienna or its immediate environs. While the heurigen is open, the “Buschenschank symbol,” a twig bundle of pine, fir, or spruce, must be mounted on the door above the entryway.
Viennese vineyards primarily produce white varietals: white Burgundy and Riesling grapes are turned into fruity wines. However, you will also see some red wines, notably Blaue Zweigelt.
To have the best heurigen experience, go late on a summer afternoon while it is still light out. Rough tables and benches are arranged in the courtyards and indoors. Waitresses in traditional dress pour their wine from pitchers into heavy glasses. A pitcher of mineral water is made available, to drink separately or to mix with the wine to make a “gespritzer. Though you can get a non-alcoholic beverage in the form of “Kracherl," a carbonated fruit-flavored beverage, you won’t find beer or coffee here!
There is certainly food, though. You can start off eating pretzel sticks and cheese spread, then follow up later with selections from a buffet which can range from a few simple dishes to a bountiful spread meats, salad, side dishes, and, of course, desserts.
Grinzing is probably the most famous “heurigen village” near Vienna, located in the city’s 18th District, and is therefore well patronized by tourists. The taverns serve traditional heurigen food and drink, the servers wear traditional dress, and there is plenty of music-making and singing. Even if you don’t go for the wine, you should go for the music—Viennese waltzes, operettas and “Wienerlieder,” typical Viennese songs.
To get a sense of the locals’ heurigen haunts and escape from the well-worn tourist path, go farther afield; the more remote and plain the taverns are, the more cozy and truly Austrian is the atmosphere. Visit Sievering, Pötzleinsdorf, or Stammersdorf(on the other side of the Danube) to deepen your heurigen experience.
When you go, keep in mind that heurigens are not necessarily open year round, and opening times differ from place to place. Be sure to call ahead or check with your hotel concierge to confirm opening times before you go.
So be sure to include plans to go heurigen visiting during your trip to Vienna. And hoist a glass in appreciation of Empress Maria Theresa and her son, Joseph II, for creating such a unique venue for good times in Austria. |